Most Texans forget there is a destination almost as naturally diverse as the Galapagos Islands, a two-hour direct flight from Austin. Outside Cabo’s resort areas, Baja California del Sur is a nature lover’s paradise where you can enjoy some of the best whale watching on earth and even swim with sea lions.
My wife and I just returned from a surprise three-night birthday getaway to Todos Santos and La Paz, so I wanted to share a little about our adventure.
Todos Santos is a laid-back coastal town about an hour’s drive north of San Jose del Cabo. Our driver picked us up from the airport and drove us to our hotel, Villa Santa Cruz. I love this hotel for families or travelers who are over 40 seeking a relaxing getaway on the beach. Its large rooms are set among gorgeous gardens with an intoxicating smell of lavender. The hotel has a popular upscale restaurant, Caracara, that makes pizza and farm-to-table food, and their more casual beachside offering, The Green Room, is one of the best places to enjoy the sunset, ceviche, and a margarita in all of Baja.
I don’t love their color choices for paint, but the rooms are well done, the staff is friendly, and the food is great, so it’s a positive experience overall – a high 4-star hotel.
One of my favorite memories from our trip was renting an ATV to drive into Todos town. The Pueblo Magico is small but worth an afternoon of shopping and dining. We particularly liked the fish tacos at Santo Chilote, an authentic local restaurant, and the coffee at Taller 17.
While we were out on the ATV, we also inspected the ever-popular Hotel San Cristobal on the other side of town. It’s a better option for young people and those seeking stylish accommodation. The nearby Punta Lobos beach is also somewhat calmer and is a hub for local fishermen.
We saw a large grey whale playing only 30 yards from the beach!
None of the beaches near Todos Santos are great for swimming because the steep drop from the beach creates strong waves and rip currents. However, this does mean you can see whales close to the beach. We saw a large grey whale playing only 30 yards from the beach!
The new Kimpton Mas Olas near Pescadero is closer to a swimmable beach for those who want to jump in. And for those who are committed to 5-star luxury and want to swim, there are options in Cabo like Esperanza Resort by Auberge.
After a couple of days to relax, we were looking for some outdoor adventure, so we had a guide pick us up for the hour-long drive to La Paz and a boat ride to Isla Espiritu Santo National Park in the Gulf of California. The area teeming with wildlife, and we saw blue footed boobies, a frigate bird colonies, a large pod of dolphin, lots of turtles, and whales in the distance. If the water hadn’t been unseasonably cold, we might have even seen whale sharks and blue whales.
The highlight of the day was snorkeling with sea lions. The animals are acclimated to human presence, so it is perfectly safe. I’ll never forget the underwater acrobatics of the curious young sea lions as their concerned mothers watched on.
We ended the day with an island picnic before heading back to Todos Santos, but you can camp on the island for up to three nights at Camp Cecil de La Isla, which will give you time to hike and see more of the local flora and fauna. It was so easy – we can’t wait to return with the kids for the grey whale calving season in Magdalena Bay next year!
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